Envy Man Magazine Online

by: darrencooper 

Spain is delightful and invigorating for the soul. The Catalonia region of Spain includes Barcelona and the coastline known as Costa Brava. The Tourism Board of Spain has had great success with Barcelona and Gay and Lesbian travel and has decided it is time to get us to venture into the countryside. If you are looking to relax, kick back, and take a stroll through the cobblestone streets of a medieval village then rent a car and get out of Barcelona. (Although you will want to spend a day or so in Barcelona’s hot “hetero-friendly” Hotel Axel, but we’ll save that for later.)

I flew out of JFK to Madrid (about a 7 hour flight) and then connected to Barcelona on Iberia Airlines in business class. Very comfortable seats that reclined into a zillion positions—and yes, I tried all of them—with Internet and movies on a screen that hides in your seat. The service was great on the trip there and the food was more than a bag of nuts. Actually, they served leg of lamb and fava beans. You don’t have to worry if you placed your toiletry bag in the overhead compartment, they hand you a nice kit complete with L’Occitane products, a fresh pair of socks and a shoe bag. My return was not as pleasant. Delay after delay (four hours to be exact) and the plane was without air conditioning before we took off. No apologies from anyone at Iberia but at least I got another pair of socks and L’Occitane products.

I was traveling with a small group and after arriving in Barcelona we took a private coach about 55 miles to Torremirona Golf and Spa Resort just ten minutes from the town of Figueres. I felt like I was on the set of “The Sound of Music”. The hills went on and on and on. The Championship golf course PAR 72 is a fair one where beginners and advanced golfers will both be satisfied. If you are not a golfer, but your partner is, there is a spa to keep you occupied while he’s out putting around.

On life’s list of things to do: jump out of an airplane at 13,000 feet. Check. (With a parachute, of course, and strapped to someone else.) OK, I did it. We all did it. To be honest, I was not even scared. I was a little nervous when we arrived at Skydive Empuriabrava, but after meeting the instructors and going over the routine of what really happens before the jump, during the free-fall (one minute of freefall), and how to land without rolling my ankle, I was confident that I would be back on the ground in one piece. Once I jumped out of the plane, caught my breath and the chute opened, I was able to relax and enjoy just how beautiful the Earth is from that high up. We were actually above the Natural Park Cap de Creus. I did not realize that Empuriabrava is laid out around a very large network of canals and that most homes are accessible by both boat and car. If you have never skydived before you may as well do it in Spain.

Empuriabrava is blessed with over four miles of wide, sandy beaches. The European Union has recently recognized the quality of water and the sand on the beaches by granting them the European Beach Award. This is also a great area of Spain for those who enjoy sailing, diving, and windsurfing.

Figueres is the home of artist Salvador Dali and where, in the 1960’s, Dali himself decided to construct his museum inside the ruins of the old Municipal Theatre of Figueres. The different collections managed by the Gala-Salvador Dali Foundation include many kinds of works of art including painting, drawing, sculpture, and hologram. There are a total of some 4,000 pieces of which 1,500 are on display in the Dali Theatre-Museum of Figueres . You may also visit the artist’s home and castle. This museum is a must-see during anyone’s visit to Spain.

From Figueres we traveled to the fishing village of Cadaques. During the high tourist season of the summer months the beaches and restaurants are filled with locals as well. After a walk on the beach and after browsing through a few of the coastal shops we sat down for lunch at Restaurant Sa Gambina. I filled up on paella, (a blend of rice, saffron, and shellfish) a homegrown specialty of Spain.

About an hour west of Cadaques is the village of Perelada. The Castle of Perelada (“Castillo Perelada”) is the historical, cultural, and commercial heart of the district. In 1285, the castle was destroyed by fire during a French ‘crusade’ against Catalonia. During the 14th century, the castle was rebuilt located outside the town walls and surrounded by gardens. Miguel Mateu bought the castle in 1923 and it was his wish to bring back the wine-growing tradition of the area.

We took a tour of Castillo Perelada’s vineyards, winery, and ageing cellars. Walking down the dark, cobweb-filled stairs into the cellar was like something out of a horror film. There were hundreds of barrels of wine stacked to the ceiling of this cellar where the Carmelite monks used to make wine more than six centuries ago. Moreover, I bet we did as the monks did; we had ourselves a good ole fashioned wine tasting. The wines were nice, as were the cavas (think champagne but not from France). I walked away with a limited edition Cava Brut Rosado Torre Galatea, the same cavas Salvador Dali served to guests in his home, which explains why the bottle is decorated with ants all over it.

After walking around the castle and tasting a little too much wine, we were ready to relax. We had heard of a spa that features a Red Wine Bath of Merlot. We found ourselves at the Hotel Golf Perelada & Wine Spa. Yes, there was a Merlot bath but that was not the highlight. The service was wonderful as the attendants guided us through the most relaxing spa experience I have ever had. From the series of showers to the pulse-point foot massage to the grape seed facial, I will take them over a Merlot bath any day.

I enjoy a five-star hotel just as much as the next guy but this hotel was just what I needed after a day of wine-tasting and spa treatments. Hotel Mas Crisaran has been described as a warm, luxury hotel located in a 15th century country house. It is a Bed and Breakfast by American standards. There are only eight exclusive double rooms and one suite. There is a dining room overlooking the courtyard with ducks, geese, and rabbits running everywhere. On each of the three levels of the hotel is a central lounging area with a full bar for your pleasure. Each room has a private balcony perfect for relaxing if you are not by the pool. This hotel is not for everyone; it may seem too primitive for some, being in an old farmhouse, but the rooms are large and open and the home-cooked meals are refreshing. I loved this place and the hospitality of its owners, two wonderful ladies,Arantxa and her partner Cristina, that share their lives with their visitors. Their thoughtfulness was so genuine that when we checked out after two nights’ stay we felt as though we were leaving family behind. What trip to Costa Brava is complete without a yachting trip on the Mediterrane an? Not this one. We climbed aboard our vessel, a schooner named Ayesha. She was beautiful, built in Turkey using only teak and sapelly. As we headed out from the Sant Feliu Guixols Harbor sipping wine and eating bread, I thought to myself, “Now this is the life.” Just as I thought I was having the time of my life Ayesha began to rock, wine glasses began to crash and I began to down Dramamine. The rocking of the boat settled and I was able to venture to the solarium deck of the boat to relax in the sun and peer out at the gorgeous shoreline on one side and the mystery of the Mediterranean that was once traveled by pirates, on the other. I was happy to be back on land after only an hour on the high seas.

One disappointing part of my trip to Costa Brava was our stop in the region of La Garrotxa at the Natural Park of the Volcanic Zone of La Garrotxa. How could a park this beautiful that offers cycling, horseriding lessons, camping, and hiking be disappointing? We were scheduled to take a 90-minute hot air balloon ride directly over the park’s volcano, but could not go up because it began to rain. Disappointed? Yes, but I got over it.

Girona, the capital of the region, is a loveable city, not too crowded, and ideal for taking a stroll to discover the history that this city offers. I walked through the Jewish Quarter where, today, practically anything can be purchased but in medieval times, it was a leading Jewish cultural center. After leaving the quarter, we found the Arab Baths dating back to the 12th century. We had had enough culture and Jewish history for the day and were ready to check into our hotel, Hotel AC Palau de Bellavista. This is a new five-star hotel within a ten-minute walk of the heart of Girona.

Nightclubs? We were told that Platea was the hip nightclub and where the gay crowd gathers. We were the gay crowd that night. The place where we ended up dancing later was Café Lola. The right mix of 80’s Pop, some crumping, and a couple vodka tonics and you may find yourself singing “Girona, I love ya, Jewish Quarter, and the Arab Baths.” I guess some nights are better than others. My advice is to save the clubbing for Ibiza or Barcelona.

 Speaking of Barcelona, it is an entire feature of its own but I must tell you about a wonderful hotel we stayed in before flying back to the U.S.A. Hotel Axel Barcelona was opened in 2003 and directed toward the gay community. The hotel features 66 rooms, including ten superior rooms, all with king-size beds with headboards by Kenzo, robes, Internet, and plasma televisions. Did I mention that there were chocolate-covered strawberries and a shot waiting in my room upon check-in? I must admit that the staff was easy on the eyes and the Axel Dining Room offered up top quality, creative cuisine. I loved the salmon carpaccio.

From May to September the roof of Hotel Axel Barcelona turns into one of the most exclusive entertainment areas of Gay Barcelona. Axel Skybar is perfect for relaxing to chill-out music in a cosmopolitan atmosphere before heading out for a night to remember. Or one you’ll want to forget.

 Overall, I had a marvelous time in Costa Brava. It may not be filled with rows of gay nightclubs that many people plan their vacations around, but what it lacks in clubs it makes up in culture, cuisine, and a coastline to remember. Oh, did I mention gay marriage is legal?  {EM}